When running a dual monitor set-up it is possible to have different wallpapers without using special software.

There is quite a clever fix to this one!

What you need is to find the resolution of each screen

e.g.

Monitor One: 1920×1080

Monitor Two: 1920×1080

This means you need an image that is 3840×1080

Once you have a suitable image

1. Go to Control Panel
2. Click Personalization
3. Click Desktop Background
4. Select the image.

Set the picture position to “Tile”.

The background image will be spanned across both screens.

The trick is you can have two different images that are 1920×1080 that are put side-by-side creating a single image that is 3840×1080

But fear not you can still used regedit and this spreadsheet from Microsoft to make the required changes

Spreadsheet : WindowsVistaGroupPolicySettings

Hope this helps

To get rid of the SolutionCenter.msi message when the computer starts up go to and install the cleanup tool.

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/290301

Open the cleanup tool after installation and select anything labled solution center and remove it.

WARNING: Be careful not to remove anything other than solution center.

Restart your computer and the issue should be resolved

What is this hpqcxs08 service? What does it do and what would happen if I disabled it?

The service named hpqcxs08 is used by HP Software Products to detect and or communicate with a HP printer device. The hpqcxs08 service path is = C:Windowssystem32svchost.exe -k hpdevmgmt

When Disabled the Hp Solution center will not detect the HP printer when it’s connected.
When Enabled the HP Solution Center can read how much ink and can communicate with the printer

Best description for hpqcxs08 – it is a HP Communication Service

More information is available at

http://www.kodyaz.com/articles/sc-command-line-tool-to-control-stop-start-services.aspx

This is a temporary file left over from downloading NET framework.

How to delete filterpipelineprintproc.dll?

1. Open the Folder where the file is contained
2. Click the tools menu at the top
3. Click folder options
4. In the next window chose the view tab at the top and then deactivate the option use simple file sharing at the bottom of the list.
5. Now select the folder that you are unable to delete, right click on it and click properties
6. A new tab will appear at the top called security
7. Within this tab you can give yourself permissions to delete - first select the users that can modify or delete the files in that folder (Name of your computerAdministrators) and in the bottom select the option Full Control
8. Click Apply  and you will now be able to delete filterpipelineprintproc.dll

What is lsass.exe?

“lsass.exe” is the Local Security Authentication Server. It verifies the validity of user logons to your PC or server. Lsass generates the process responsible for authenticating users for the Winlogon service. This is performed by using authentication packages such as the default, Msgina.dll. If authentication is successful, Lsass generates the user’s access token, which is used to launch the initial shell. Other processes that the user initiates then inherit this token.

Lsass.exe has been infected in the past

The Sasser worm exploited a vulnerability in LSASS  to spread via a remote buffer overflow in computers running Microsoft Windows XP and Windows 2000. The worm is particularly potent in that it can spread without any interaction with humans, nor does it ‘travel by email’ like many other worms.

Should the lsass.exe program end, for example, by the Sasser worm’s effects, then a countdown timer will appear on the screen, advising the user to save his work and close all programs before Windows shuts down.

When Is Lsass.exe dangourous?

The lsass.exe file is located in the folder C:WindowsSystem32. In other cases, lsass.exe is a virus, spyware, trojan or worm!

What can I do to check Lsass.exe and stop my computer automatically rebooting?

Forcible termination of lsass.exe will result in the Welcome screen losing its accounts and you will be prompted to restart your computer.

In most cases, lsass.exe system error and lsass.exe application error make the computer unusable, because the user authentication token cannot be obtained from the server. In some cases, the error may be caused by a trojan, that camouflages itself as the lsass process. If the system is not infected, the error is caused by missing or corrupt configuration file and Registry entries. You can fix the Registry using the free Auslogics Registry Cleaner.

Malware often pretends to be lsass.exe. For example, the Sasser worm found a vulnerability in LSASS and spreads via a remote buffer overflow in Windows XP and Windows 2000 computers. This worm can spread without any interaction with humans, nor does it ‘travel by email’ like many other worms.

If your computer enters a reboot loop because of an lsass.exe error, you get an lsass.exe error when trying to change your password, or the errors are caused by an infections, do the following:

1. After booting into Windows quickly click Start and then Run
2. Type in shutdown -a and press Enter.

This will prevent your computer from restarting continuously.

Now try scanning your PC with an up-to-date anti-virus program in Safe Mode (tap F8 repeatedly during startup). Also make sure that you have all Windows updates installed. If this doesn’t help, you might need to do a Windows repair or a clean Windows install.

Note: The lsass.exe file should be in the C:WindowsSystem32 folder. If you find it anywhere else, then lsass.exe is a virus, trojan, worm, or spyware!

Virus with same name:

W32.Nimos.Worm – Symantec Corporation
W32.Sasser.E.Worm (Lsasss.exe) – McAfee
W32.HLLW.Lovgate.C@mm – Symantec Corporation

When you open the Windows Task Manager (by pressing CTRL-ALT-DEL) you might notice the process jqs.exe that is
running with a low priority. Jqs.exe uses about 1.5 Megabytes of computer memory and 2 Megabytes of virtual memory while running. It also initiates I/O processes frequent basis, if you have those columns activated in the Task Manager.

The JQS process is related to Java. Jqs.exe is the Java Quick Starter which was designed to improve the start-up time of Java applets and applications by prefetching (pre loading) Java Runtime Environment files frequently into memory. This has a benefit for mainly users who run Java applications on a day to day basis. Everyone else would probably benefit from disabling the Java Quick Starter. Think of a user who encounters one Java applet per month (or week), would it make sense to run the process all the time because of those few instances where it might start the application or applet faster? Quite inefficient!

Jqs.exe is definitely queries the Windows Registry on a regular basis. The performance increase might not be huge but you will free up some computer memory and some I/O processes on the computer system.

How to disable JQS.exe

Now, if you want to disable the Java Quick Starter process (JQS.exe) you can do that in the Windows Control Panel. Open the windows control panel and you find a Java entry there which will open the Java Control Panel.

A click on Advanced and the selection of Miscellaneous will display the activated Java Quick Starter entry. Uncheck the box to disable the process. This will be visible in the Windows Task Manager immediately.

• 10 inch LED backlit WSVGA screen (1024×600)
• Intel ATOM N280 processor 1.66GHz
• 1GB DDR2 memory (expandable to 2GB, which I did)
• 160GB HDD built in plus 10GB Eee Online Storage
• Windows XP Home w/SP3
• Wireless-N
• 1.3 MP webcam
• Supposed 9.5 hour battery (Depends on Configuration)
• 3 USB, 1 SD card slot
• Weighs 3.2 lbs (with battery)

1st test: Battery lifetime

 
I turned off sleep mode and disabled hibernation. I turned the screen brightness to one level above its lowest setting, which is ideal for me because I hate glossy reflecting screens. I set the power options to alert me when the battery hits 5% and charge the battery to 100% while it’s off before I start this test. I removed the 1GB DIMM and installed a 2GB one and start testing at 1 P.M.
 
First I played with some of the basic Windows features like icon spacing and active title bar colors. I set my screensaver to play photos of my kids and then set

Advanced System Care to clean up the system. While it works I surf on over to TBCS and eBay among other places. I do my normal internet usage like updating my website and uploading photos of my Cuda mod to multiple modding forums.

The keyboard isn’t perfect if you’re used to desktops, but I adapt in about an hour. The touchpad is different. You have to use two fingers to scroll up, down and sideways. There’s a tricky movement that lets you use the touchpad to zoom in and out. There are other movements that mean nothing to me.

There are points during the test where I walk away or just watch TV and let the screensaver play for a few minutes. There are other more intense times where I defrag the hard drive or play Peggle Extreme on Steam.

As I type this review I’m at 6% of my battery and the time is 8:26 PM.
 
Things I hate thus far.
 
(1) I hate not knowing when CAPS lock is on or off. There’s no light for it or any type of on screen display. (2) It has bluetooth, which is not something I hate, but I don’t like having a messy desktop especially ones with icons that I cannot get rid of. I don’t use any bluetooth devices so I don’t need a shortcut. The problem came when I tried to delete the icon, because it wouldn’t let me. I had to uninstall the bluetooth software to make the icon go away. (3) After the first week the Eee PC began freezing at boot up. I later discovered that it was unable to load the audio driver for the start up sound and froze trying. I reinstalled teh driver from the Asus website and that fixed it. And lastly, (4) It has Windows XP. Everyone seems to be hanging on to XP even after the boat has begun to sink, but the more I use Vista and have to later use XP I realize how much I hate it. My wireless internet is already configured, but setting it up in XP is not as easy as Vista. Vista’s visual effects are far smoother too. Having to use a 3rd party software firewall is one more thing that has to load, because XP is naked and exposed on the net. Windows defender isn’t great, but it’s an improvement over XP. Having played with Windows 7 makes me salivate at its eventual release. I will probably upgrade this Netbook when it hits shelves.
 
My battery is down to 5% now and the time is 8:32 PM. The Netbook has been on for 7.5 hours and I’m sick of looking at the screen.
 
As the battery gets closer to dead it drains even faster. 3% hits at 8:40 PM. And the Asus claims to have 12 minutes left. I stop typing, save my review and let the screensaver play as the battery nears its end.
 
At 1% of battery it says there’s 2 minutes left so I plug it back in. The time is 8:51 PM. The Netbook has been on for 7 hours and 51 minutes, give or take a couple minutes. This test replicated what I would consider a normal day of computer use. I spend time surfing the web, listening to music, defragging my hard drive, downloading updates, and installing new programs.
 
I’m willing to bet that if I charge it back to 100% and let my screensaver go the entire time I can easily expect 9.5 hours as Asus claims. This battery is amazing!

2nd Test: Benchmarking – Disclaimer: I ran the following tests with 2GB installed and on the battery alone.
 
I kicked off testing with 3DMark2001 SE which took at least 2 minutes to install! After all 17 tests the final score was 2108. Aquamark 3, PCMark04, and 3DMark05 would not run at all. Those programs have a minimum reequired screen resolution that the Eee PC does not support. Obviously this computer is not meant for gaming and I don’t expect it too, but it would’ve been nice if the tests ran. I have played Peggle and I am comfortable with saying that it does outperform the GeForce 6150 which is common on a lot of retail Computers/laptops.
 
Final thoughts:
 
This is what I consider a good buy. As I stated, there’s a couple things I wish it could do, but it has no problem doing what it needs to do. It was designed for internet and light office work and it excels at it. I love that it can be upgraded to 2 gigs of RAM and if a 4GB DIMM wasn’t so outrageously expensive, I’d drop it in just to see what happens. Obviously, the real reason I got this Netbook is because of the battery. Asus claims a 9.5 hour battery life under very insane/strict conditions, but we know that’s not realistic. Under what I would consider normal use it did last 7 hours and 50 minutes. That’s easily 4 hours better than a modern laptop.
 
I’d give it an easy 4 1/2 outta 5 stars.

Ken Kirby – PCModHouse.com

http://www.techsupport.me.uk/guides/how-to-make-your-pc-case-look-like-a-million-dollars/

The page Ken wrote got the most unique hits between the 1st of May and 31st of May – He will now be the proud owner of some Corsair XMS DDR2 Memory which will be winging its way to him soon.

Big thanks for taking part Ken. Techsupport.me.uk have really enjoyed some of the entries that were submitted and have found the contest quite refreshing. What this space for similar competitions in the future.  Thanks everyone!

The Conficker worm, sometimes called Downadup or Kido has managed to infect a large number of computers. Specifics are hard to come by, but some researchers estimate that millions of computers have been infected with this threat since January. If you are unable to reach certain web sites, you may be infected. In that case you will need to get to a computer that is not infected, download the Conficker removal tool and run it on the infected machine before new antivirus software. Symantec has created a detailed technical analysis of the threat here.

What does the Conficker worm do?

The Conficker worm has created secure infrastructure for cybercrime. The worm allows its creators to remotely install software on infected machines. What will that software do? We don’t know. Most likely the worm will be used to create a botnet that will be rented out to criminals who want to send SPAM, steal IDs and direct users to online scams and phishing sites.

The Conficker worm mostly spreads across networks. If it finds a vulnerable computer, it turns off the automatic backup service, deletes previous restore points, disables many security services, blocks access to a number of security web sites and opens infected machines to receive additional programs from the malware’s creator. The worm then tries to spread itself to other computers on the same network.

How does the worm infect a computer?

The Downadup worm tries to take advantage of a problem with Windows (a vulnerability) called MS08-067 to quietly install itself. Users who automatically receive updates from Microsoft are already protected from this. The worm also tries to spread by copying itself into shared folders on networks and by infecting USB devices such as memory sticks.

Who is at risk?

Users whose computers are not configured to receive patches and updates from Microsoft and who are not running an up to date antivirus product are most at risk. Users who do not have a genuine version of Windows from Microsoft are most at risk since pirated system usually cannot get Microsoft updates and patches.

More infomation is avalible on  Wikipedia.

The Fix

If you have a computer that is infected, you will need to use an uninfected computer to download a specialised Conficker removal tool from here.

FAQ
Q: What should I do if my PC is infected?

A: If you have a computer that is infected, you will need to use an uninfected computer to download a specialised Conficker removal tool from here.

Q: Am I safe if I don’t go to questionable web sites?

A: No. The Conficker worm seeks out computers on the same network. You can be in a coffee shop, an airport or in the office and the worm will quietly try to attach to your computer and run itself.

Q: How do I know if I am infected?

A: The best way to know if you are infected is to run a good antivirus product. One symptom that may indicate you are infected is finding that your computer is blocked from accessing the web sites of most security companies.

The print spooler service is not running Error!

So your getting the following error when you try to install a Printer in Windows.

Operation could not be completed. The print spooler service is not running.

How to fix The print spooler service is not running Error

1. Press the Windows key + R to open the Run dialog Start and type services.msc and click OK.

2. Double-click the Printer Spooler service, and then change the startup type to Automatic. This sets the Spooler service to start automatically when you restart the computer. Click OK.

3. Restart the computer and try to install the printer again.

If that doesn’t work, the problem could be related to corrupted printer drivers that are installed on the computer. Try uninstalling all printer software from the computer and start the above fix from the start. This may include PDF writer or faxing software as well.

Anything listed in the Control Panel under Printers & Faxes should be removed. If there is any software installed for other printers in Add/Remove Programs uninstall that too. Clean out everything possible that might be hanging the Printer Spooler service. Obtain updated software from your printer manufacturers and reinstall only the items needed for your printer.

If you open Services.msc (start > run > services.msc >ok) and see the following or If the first line in the list of services looks similar to ##Id_String2.6844F930_1628_4223_B5CC_5BB94B879762##, then Bonjour is installed on your system.

Why Do I Have Bonjour or mDNSResponder.exe running?
If you’ve installed software like Apple’s iTunes, Adobe Premiere Pro, Skype or Gizmo then you probably already a Bonjour folder in your Program Files directory. The service starts automatically and runs a process named mDNSResponder.exe which cannot be ended by Windows Task Manager. If you wanted to remove, uninstall or stop Bonjour from being on your computer then it can seam impossible to find any uninstaller for it! There isn’t even an entry for it in Control Panel’s Add or Remove Programs.

How do I safely uninstall Bonjour and remove mDNSResponder.exe process?

Removing Bonjour from your computer.

1. Click on Start > Run > type the command below and hit OK.

“%PROGRAMFILES%BonjourmDNSResponder.exe” -remove

2. Open the directory C:Program FilesBonjour
3. Rename the mdnsNSP.dll file in that folder to mdnsNSP.bak
4. Restart your computer
5. Once you are back in windows Delete the C:Program FilesBonjour folder

Step one above will stop and remove Bonjour Service from your computer. To confirm this, click on Start > Run and type services.msc. Look for Bonjour Service name. Congratulations if it’s not there, you’ve successfully removed it.

Other utilities for removing Bonjour or mDNSResponder.exe
The Gizmo Project has created a small tool TurnOffBonjour.exe - that turns off and removes Bonjour service.

But it will not remove the Bonjour folder from Program Files. You will still need to manually delete the Bonjour folder after restart (Step 5 above). The reason why you don’t delete the folder before a restart is in case there’s a problem then the Bonjour files are still there for you to restore the service.

If you encountered problems after uninstalling or removing Bonjour, you can always download and reinstall Bonjour by using the following link Download Bonjour for Windows

There is also a new wizard tool called Au Revoir, Bonjour that will remove the Apple Bonjour Service from Windows computers.

Basically The Recycle Bin does not appear on the desktop in Windows Vista or in Windows XP. Therefore, you cannot use the Recycle Bin to do such tasks as restoring a file that was deleted. Hopfully we can help you make the Recycle Bin work again.

Several issues could cause this problem:

• A third-party program was used to hide the Recycle Bin.
• The TweakUI program was used to hide the Recycle Bin.
• The registry information for the Recycle Bin was deleted.
• A Group Policy setting was used to hide the Recycle Bin.

You can automatically fix the problem by downloading this file from Microsoft.

Or if you prefer the manual method -

1. Click Start, and then click Run.
2. In the Open box, type regedit, and then click OK.
3. Locate the following registry key:
   HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWAREMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerDesktopNameSpace
4. Right-click the registry key that you located in step 3, point to New, and then click Key.
5. Type {645FF040-5081-101B-9F08-00AA002F954E}, and then press ENTER.
6. Click the new {645FF040-5081-101B-9F08-00AA002F954E} key that you created in step 5.
7. In the right pane, double-click the (Default) entry.
8. In the Edit String dialog box, type Recycle Bin in the Value data box, and then click OK.
9. Close Registry Editor.

If you cannot restore the Recycle Bin by using the resolutions that are listed above, you can work around this issue by creating a shortcut to the Recycle Bin:

Note: This doesnt restore full functionality but will restore most

1. Click Start, and then click My Computer.
2. On the Tools menu, click Folder Options.
3. Click the View tab, and then click to clear the Hide protected operating system files (Recommended) check box.
4. Click Yes when you receive the warning message, and then click OK to close the Folder Options dialog box.
5. Click Folders on the toolbar.
6. Note If Folders is not visible on the toolbar, point to Toolbars on the View menu, and then click Standard Buttons.
7. In the left navigation pane, under Folders, locate the Recycle Bin folder, and then drag the Recycle Bin folder to the desktop.
8. On the Tools menu, click Folder Options.
9. Click the View tab, and then click to select the Hide protected operating system files (Recommended) check box. Click OK.

Microsoft Windows Search Indexer stopped working and was closed
A problem caused the application to stop working correctly. Windows will notify you if a solution is available.

So I went into services and disabled it (and I had to also disable the automatic retry separately or it kept starting despite being “disabled”). Any attempt to manually start it there gives me:

Windows could not start the Windows Search service on Local Computer.

Error 1067: The process terminated unexpectedly.

The fix is to delete all files related to search indexing, located by default at:

C:ProgramDataMicrosoftSearchDataApplicationsWindows

and:

C:ProgramDataMicrosoftSearchDataTemp

Note that these are both system directories – You can access it without changing your folder options, just type the shortcut to the folders in the address bar of windows explorer. Or if you want to show hidden folders, you go into Control Panel, (make sure you’re in classic view) and you click on the icon labeled Folder Options, at which point you go into the View tab, there is a sub-folder about halfway down entitled Hidden Files and Folders, click the button next to Show Hidden Files and Folders.

Delete all files and folders in these directories.

Then, change the service back to starting automatically. You still can’t start the service until you reboot, at which time Windows will rebuild the index for you.

This happens to me a lot when im playing Call of Duty 5 or Call of Duty 4 as my run key is Shift, so im there playing and running around and I hit the shift key to get away from other people trying to kill me, then without warning Sticky keys notification minimises the game and asks me if I want to enable sticky keys! How annoying! here is how to stop it.

1. Open Control Panel and Click Accessibility Options



2. Click settings in the StickyKeys box
   
3. Untick “Use Shortcut” and click Ok
4. Make sure you click Apply and click Ok 

Now if you try to press shift 5 times the message will not appear! happy gaming!

One of the best ways to improve your case’s looks without spending huge money is to spray-paint it. Getting serious with spray-paint is more about patience than money, but your case will still look like a million dollars

Getting that show car shine on your case is a great way to grab serious attention. In this chapter, I will reveal the secrets to getting your case to have the gloss of a new BMW, but for the price of a used Geo. Professionals use compressed air and special equipment to paint. But you can get results that are just as good with a “rattlecan” and some sanding techniques. First we will cover the proper techniques for surface preparation, and paint application. Then we will deal with applying the clear coat and finish the sanding. You can paint your case according to this chapter and have a great looking case, but by adding the finishing touches you can have the show car look that will turn heads.

Your total budget for this project will be under Forty dollars (and you can do just the first portion for fewer than twenty). You’ll need:

1x can of primer
1x or more cans of spray-paint in your choice of color
1x can of clear coat

For surface preparation, you’ll need a sheet each of 220, 320, and 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper, and a sanding block. For finish sanding, you’ll need a sheet each of 600, 1000, and 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper, a wire brush, paint stripper (both for correcting mistakes), plus rubbing compound. The rubbing can be found in any automotive supply store. You’ll also want two or three clean tack cloths

When you select your paints, choose a good quality spray-paint for automotive applications. Auto parts stores are the best sources because you can usually pick up your sanding materials at the same time as your paint. Use a primer and paint from the same manufacturer for the best results, and never mix lacquer with acrylic enamel, pick one system or the other. I chose to use enamel for this project. If you’re not after the show car look, and just want a rugged paint job, epoxy paint is available for extreme ruggedness.

Don’t skimp on the paint, because in this project the labor will be vastly more intense than the material cost. As you can see, I spared no expense–I went for the automotive gray primer.

You might have heard the key to successful painting is preparation, and if so, you heard right. Sand down the existing paint (usually a powder coat finish with a light texture on most cases) to get as flat a surface as possible before applying our paint. To remove the beige paint, start with 220 grit, which is fine, but has a good deal of cutting action. Sand your panels fairly aggressively in a north-south motion, but lighten when if you start to cut through the beige to metal. We don’t need to remove the beige, but we do want the texture gone. Then move to a 320 grit and sand east-west with a light pressure. This will remove the scratch marks from the previous sanding, and smooth the surface. You will see the results by your own reflection on the surface

Sand the bezel (façade of the case), both because we want to get rid of the texture, and because the raised lettering by the buttons will get flattened when we finish sand, so removing it during prep avoids having the old color show through. So get rid of the raised lettering or symbols on your bezel if you have any.

And the final key to prep is cleanliness. Leaving an oily fingerprint on your panel can keep the paint from properly adhering; so can dust from sanding or just regular old crud that blows by. So work in a dust-free area as much as possible, and wipe down your sanded work piece with tack cloth before applying paint or primer. Care taken here will pay of in the form of a durable, chip-resistant finish.

For each panel you’re painting (plus the bezel), take them to this state of smoothness first. Primer won’t fill scratches unless they’re very, very fine, and the application of your color coat will make scratches pop out like neon signs, so don’t take shortcuts on preparation. Wet sanding keeps the sandpaper from clogging with paint particles. To properly wet sand, all you need is a shallow container with about a gallon of clean water to which you’ve added a couple drops of liquid dish detergent. If you have running water, that works well also. Rinse away the entire paint residue and wipe the work piece with a clean tack cloth, then set it aside to dry thoroughly. You may find that a spray bottle with the same clean water/dish soap is easier. Either way, choose your method and stick with it.

Apply primer to your newly prepped surfaces. Pay attention to the edges, and to any areas where metal shows through the beige. Those are spots that will tend to wear, especially when you sand between coats.

Continue to apply thin coats to the work pieces until you’ve covered them completely. You’ll see a flat, matte surface at this point. Let the primer dry (usually you can sand within a half hour, but check the directions on the can) and wet sand your primer coat with 400 grit and light pressure. You’ll almost certainly cut through the primer, especially around the edges. So after sanding we’ll do a second primer coat

Applying the second coat is the same technique as the first, but now you’ll see the cut-through areas, and you can direct a little extra primer towards them. Again, sand this coat with 400 grit. This will remove any overspray (paint particles that dry in midair and fall on the surface), and flatten out any dust nibs or stray insects that would mess up the flat surface.

Now break out the color coat and go insane! No, actually, you’ll want to apply thin coats again, just like with the primer. Mistakes in primer are easy to sand out, but with the color coat, things like drips or scratches will be much more work to fix. So be careful to get the edges of your work pieces, and thoroughly coat them with several thin coats, leaving a finish that looks “wet.” You’ll still see some “red” texture; this is inevitable when using rattle cans. But our next steps will be to sand the red peel flat, and apply a couple clear coats to add gloss and protect the color coat

You can see we’re quite glossy, but not yet getting mirror-quality reflections. That’s because the slight texture in the surface distorts the reflections (we’re missing the flatness). So we need to let the color coat cure for a minimum of two days (some paints will continue to harden for up to a month actually, but usually you can sand within two to three days) and then go back for the fun part, finish sanding.

You can certainly stop here and have a really nice paint job. The time we spent on prep will make this a very durable finish, and it sure looks better than factory at this point. But in the next part, we’ll finish sanding and apply a clear coat (and sand and clear coat and sand and…) to get the ultimate finish on our panels.

Anyone can spray paint their case. It’s not too hard to get a decent looking paint job from ordinary cans of spray paint. But to get a truly extreme paint job, the kind you’d see on a show car, you’ll need to apply some clear coat, and a healthy amount of elbow grease. Fortunately neither one is very expensive. I was looking for a “cooling lava” look. I wanted the case to be mostly red, but with hints of black. This would give the appearance of molten lava with cool spots

To briefly recap how we got to this state, it was removing the existing paint with 220 grit, applying primer, sanding the primer smooth with 400 grit, applying a second coat of primer, sanding that smooth with 400 grit, and applying a color coat. Every time we apply paint we pick up an “orange peel” texture. That’s inherent in using a rattle can to apply paint. Our main job in sanding is to flatten the surface. The better you flatten, the more convincing the mirror look becomes. So our next step is to sand our first color coat with 600 grit to flatten and prepare the surface for the second color coat. Unlike primer, a color coat needs to cure two to three days before being sanded.

If you cut through the color coat a little like in the bottom of the previous picture, that’s fine. Try to use that as an indication to back off the pressure on your sanding block. 600 grit is very fine, and when the surface approaches flatness, you’ll feel the work piece “grab” your sanding block. If you keep up strong pressure at that point, you’re likely to cut through. Low spots will show up as glossy black pits against the matte where you’ve sanded. You’ll need to dry the work piece to see these, but they show you where you need to sand further. Work spent flattening these will pay off–otherwise they’ll show as dimples in your finish.

Once you’ve flattened everything down, apply your second color coat. Don’t worry about dust nibs or small bugs that land on it. These will get sanded smooth later–you’ll mess it up more by trying to fix these while the paint is wet. Make sure your second color coat is even but thick. Concentrate on areas where you cut through the first color coat. This picture shows the orange peel texture that you just finished spending all that time removing. You’ll need to repeat the 600 grit sanding step for the second coat, making sure to not cut through to primer. Don’t over apply the paint; it will be more likely to drip or form blemishes

Again, allow your color coat to cure for a minimum of two days before you sand. After sanding the second color coat, you should have panels with a uniform matte finish, with no glossy pits. There will be visible fine scratch marks from the sandpaper. If you get any deep scratches, they will show through to the finished surface unless you take the time to fix them now. Unfortunately, that usually means sanding them out, and that can put you back all the way to applying primer again. So watch out for grit or debris on your sandpaper.

You could buff this finish out to a decent gloss. But by applying a clear coat, you’ll deepen the gloss significantly. Apply the clear coat to the work pieces generously. Don’t over apply, but build up several thin applications to a wet, glossy coat. Orange peel texture will be noticeable, and dust nibs will seem to be magnetically attracted, but don’t worry. Again, we cure this coat for two days, and then we repeat the 600 grit flattening-out-the-orange peel routine. If you cut through the clear coat, a second application is necessary, plus the two day cure before you sand again. By now you see this is not a technique for the impatient. But once you finish the flattening, you get to move up the grit scale again to scratch removal. Lightly sand with 1000 grit and then 1500 grit (and 2000 if you have some) to remove the scratches left by each previous step

All that sanding work was very, very tedious, but it pays off right now. If you did a good job with the previous steps, the application of rubbing compound won’t be anywhere near as difficult as if you cut corners. By now you’ve got a good six hours into sanding, so I know that if you’re with me here, you’re going the distance. And I promise that the last couple steps are a little less tedious. To buff out the fine scratches, use a high quality rubbing compound available from auto parts stores. Apply it per the package directions, but fundamentally you rub the scratches out, leaving only a faint haze. Use only a clean, soft cotton cloth for this step.

This is the payoff! You’ll see the gloss emerge as you remove the compound from the panels. The matte finish is replaced by gloss with only a faint haze. There are swirl mark removers and glazes available where you get your paint supplies to remove the last traces of haze. You can apply these right after compounding. If you want to use an automobile wax, wait a month for the paint to fully cure first. But with the hand glaze applied, you’ll have the show car look that will grab serious attention

I like to keep my links available at the top of my IE page. I also like to keep them personalized. You can do this too.

First, unlock your Toolbar by right clicking where your Back, Forward and Home buttons are

Then select to have your links available

Then drag and release your Links bar where you want it. Assign all your most viewed sites into the Links folder. For each site shortcut, right click the individual buttons, and select properties

Next click: Change Icon. The next viewer will probably just show the few options currently available for that file.
Select Browse, to see all system32 folders and files

Then search for Shell32.dll. This is where most of windows icons are stored. Simply search for one you like, click it and hit OK

Do this for each and you’re set.
If you like an icon that’s not here because it belongs to another program, find the program in the Start menu.

I wanted the Ultrawipe Hard drive icon for my web page shortcut

Right click and select properties

In the shortcut tab click: Change Icon

Then select the pic location, right click and copy

Later, return to your links bar and right click, paste into the icon address bar

Press enter and now you have those icons at your disposal.

Click OK twice and your done

So I just got the Corsair Flash Survivor in 32GB capacity (Shows as 30.2GB in Windows) which debuted at CES 2008 in Las Vegas, NV. It retails for about $180 from mwave.com It comes packaged with Corsair dog-tags and a 3 inch USB extension cord. The Survivor is aptly named because of its sheer ruggedness and supposed invincibility

The drive is a hell of a lot smaller than a portable hard drive of the same capacity, but bigger than a normal flash drive. I was telling some friends of mine about the Corsair Survivor and how the first computer my wife and I bought as a couple only had a 20GB Hard drive. It’s amazing how this drive sizes up to that of a standard IDE drive. Of course, Corsair does make a 32GB Voyager that’s “normal” sized

The Survivor is cased in aluminum and is supposedly waterproof. The rim has a rubber seal which keeps everything dry inside, or so we’ll see. Corsair even claims that their rugged product can even “survive” depths of 200 meters (600 feet)!

The drive inside has to be unscrewed from the casing to access the USB stick inside. I thought it took too many turns to unscrew it.

I’d like to do a basic review, but here’s my chance to shine, I’m going to torture it! The first of many tests start at loading data. I often see product reviewers who give specs out by the millisecond, but that never means anything to me.

I loaded my music library of 1669 MP3’s (5.83GB) from my C: drive to the Survivor. It took 19 minutes and 33 seconds, but only 36 seconds to delete them. Then I transferred all 3,072 pictures (478MB) I have for every mod I’ve ever done or thought of doing to the drive as individual files, not zipped. It took 83 seconds, which is 37.58 seconds per MB. Obviously if the drive is doing more than a few MB at a time it’s going to take longer. Case in point: transferring all of my 4074 fonts totaling 109MB only took 14 seconds; which is 7.78 seconds per MB.

The torture session was next. I had 13.7GB worth of data on the drive and HAD to test its ability to retain my data under extraordinary circumstances. First, I ran the Survivor over with my car a few times without a scratch

The problem with this test is that not all the weight of the car is on the drive. Figure one tire holds approximately ¼ of the car’s total weight. That weight is distributed over the entire width of the tire. The flash drive is only an inch or so wide and round, where it gets its most distinct advantage. The shape, just like Roman arch, spreads the weight around the entire exposed surface minimizing the load and maximizing the chance that this test means nothing.

I then boiled the Survivor for a good 15 minutes and met the same fate. My final test was to freeze the drive in a block of water, then thaw it out and test the drive again. What do you think was the fate this time?

IT PASSED.

So what’s my opinion? The Corsair Flash Survivor is a pretty nice drive. It’s the smallest 32GB drive I’ve ever seen and it’s definitely the toughest. Is it Unbreakable? I’d love to drop it from a plane or pound it with a sledgehammer, but I don’t have these options available to me. Maybe when the 64GB drive comes out, I will.

Pros:
• 32GB in my pocket in about the size of a flash drive
• Faster than a portable hard drive
• Water, cold, heat proof
• Tough as nails

Cons:
• A bit bigger than a standard thumb drive
• Unscrewing it takes a few too many turns?

Rating: 9 out of 10

1. Open Control Panel and double click Administrative Tools
2. Double click Computer Management
3.  Left click Disk management in the left hand task plane
4. Use the lower right hand task plane to find the removable device 
5. Right click the removable disks space and select Change drive letter and Paths…
6. Click Change and select a letter that is not in use
7. Select a letter that is not in use
8. Click Ok and click Yes to the warning (becarefull to only do this to drives that are not in use, dont do it to your windows drive!!)
9. Now the drive will appear in My Computer

Alternativly you could try Acronis Disk Management to takle any other disk related problems

Thanks to Ewa Paszkiewicz for this Article

Tech Support me is giving you the chance to win the following memory (Spec sheet)

Here’s what you have to do between now and April 30 2009 we need you to write a tech support article, technical how-to guide or harware/software review (see the main page for examples) which will be posted on our main site (credit will be given to you for writing the article). Click Here to enter